Khảo cake, or “pẻng cao” in the Tày language, bears a strong cultural influence from the Hoa people and has become an indispensable part of every Tết (Lunar New Year) celebration for the Tày. For them, Tết without Khảo cake is simply incomplete. More than just a treat for guests, Khảo cake is often compared to a sweet, long-lasting energy bar due to its ability to retain its delicious flavor for extended periods without molding or losing its freshness.
To create authentic Khảo cakes, the people of Cao Bằng undertake a meticulous process requiring skill and precision. Premium sticky rice, known for its round, plump, and fragrant grains, is carefully selected, thoroughly washed, and then roasted. The roasting process is crucial; the rice must be roasted just enough to achieve a beautiful color and rich aroma. Once roasted, the rice is finely ground using a stone mortar – the finer the powder, the better the cake.
After grinding, the flour is traditionally 'buried' (hạ thổ) for about 4-5 days to absorb sufficient moisture. The cake's filling is a delicate blend of roasted peanuts and sesame seeds, finely crushed, combined with thoroughly boiled pork fat, diced and marinated with sugar until translucent. The earthy richness of peanuts and sesame, the creamy sweetness of pork fat, and the subtle aroma of sticky rice flour intertwine to create a rich, unforgettable flavor. Once molded, the cakes are cut into rectangular pieces and wrapped in vibrant colored papers, making them visually appealing and preserving their taste.
Moving from the sweet notes of Khảo Cake, Cao Bằng also delights visitors with its unique Black Trám Sticky Rice (Xôi Trám Đen). Unlike other sticky rice dishes, Xôi Trám Đen boasts a gentle fragrance of mountain sticky rice blended with the distinctive earthy aroma of wild trám fruit. Each tender, plump grain of sticky rice is embraced by the rich, slightly oily flavor of trám, creating a unique and satisfying taste that remains delightful even after many bites, a true culinary signature of Cao Bằng.
The main ingredient for this sticky rice dish is black trám – a characteristic fruit of the mountainous region. Cao Bằng offers two types of trám: black and white. Black trám turns a dark purple when ripe and must be knocked down with a pole, whereas white trám falls naturally when it ripens to a golden yellow. Black trám is highly valued for its culinary qualities. For delicious sticky rice, the trám fruit must be soaked in hot water (around 50°C) until soft, then pitted, using only the flesh.
The mountain sticky rice (nếp nương) for Xôi Trám is soaked for about 3 hours, then washed thoroughly and tossed with a pinch of salt to ensure the rice is tender, sticky, and flavorful. The rice is steamed in a bamboo steamer; once the water boils, the prepared trám fruit is layered on top. After approximately 30 minutes, when the sticky rice is cooked, a spoonful of pork fat is drizzled over it, and bamboo chopsticks are used to mix the trám and rice evenly. The finished Xôi Trám has a beautiful purple hue, a tender texture, and a fragrant aroma that doesn't stick to the hands. This dish is best enjoyed with black sesame salt or Cao Bằng sausage, offering a nutritious and unforgettable gastronomic experience.