Hoang Su Phi, a mountainous district in western Ha Giang, located approximately 80-100km from the provincial capital, is a land where majestic mountains meet the gentle flow of the Bac and Chay rivers. Renowned for its pristine beauty, it is also known as the 'land of golden bark' (a translation from the local name of a golden-barked tree found here, or according to local folklore), concealing countless wonders for travelers to explore. Characterized by a terrain carved by hills and streams, Hoang Su Phi boasts a distinct and rich beauty, serving as home to 12 ethnic groups, whose vibrant cultures contribute to Vietnam's diverse tapestry.
From April to June each year, Hoang Su Phi enters its enchanting water pouring season, a spectacle that deeply moves the soul. Water from the upstream cascades down, filling the terraced fields and transforming them into thousands of giant mirrors reflecting the azure sky, fluffy white clouds, and shimmering sunlight. This is also when the ethnic minority communities begin their new cropping season, diligently plowing and transplanting rice seedlings. The sight of tiny farmers amidst the vast expanse of watery fields, against a backdrop of endless mountains, creates a vivid and poetic scene of labor, leaving visitors awestruck by the harmonious beauty of humanity and nature.
September and October mark Hoang Su Phi's most splendid period, when the terraced rice fields don their shimmering golden attire of ripe rice. Layer upon layer, the fields stretch endlessly, gracefully winding along the mountain slopes, creating an immense, boundless 'golden sea'. The rich aroma of fresh rice permeates the cool autumn air, under the radiant sunrise or sunset, forming a breathtaking panorama. This is not merely a beautiful natural landscape but also the fruit of labor from generations of La Chi, Dao, and Nung ethnic groups, who have transformed steep mountain sides into fertile rice paddies, recognized as a National Relic since 2012.
The terraced fields of Hoang Su Phi are not confined to a single spot but span across six communes: Ban Luoc, San Sa Ho, Ban Phung, Ho Thau, Nam Ty, and Thong Nguyen. Each commune boasts its unique charm. Ban Phung, perched precariously near the border, features terraces with steep 60-degree slopes, among the highest in Vietnam, creating an illusion of stairs to heaven. Ho Thau impresses with the terraced fields of the Red Dao people, where small forest patches are preserved around each field to prevent landslides. Thong Nguyen resembles a plateau mid-mountain, a convergence of three streams, embodying a poetic 'Gathering of Mountains and Waters'. These magnificent architectural feats stand as testaments to the wisdom and perseverance of the indigenous communities.
No journey through Hoang Su Phi is complete without the opportunity to conquer the two 'rooftops' of the Northeast: Chieu Lau Thi and Tay Con Linh. Chieu Lau Thi, or 'Nine-Tiered Stairway', at an elevation of 2,402m, is a paradise for cloud hunters. From its summit, you'll witness a vast sea of clouds swirling like waves, with majestic mountains appearing like a colossal ink wash painting at sunrise or sunset. Tay Con Linh, reaching 2,419m, not only challenges trekkers with its arduous primary forest trails but is also famous for centuries-old Shan Tuyet tea trees, veiled in the early morning mist. Both peaks promise unforgettable experiences and spectacular panoramic views.
Beyond its rice terraces, Hoang Su Phi captivates visitors with vibrant buckwheat fields that bloom in late autumn. After the harvest, these fields of purple, pink, and white flowers sprawl across the hillsides, especially in San Sa Ho commune, creating a romantic and picturesque scene. This region also prides itself on ancient Shan Tuyet tea hills, some centuries old, found in Fin Ho and Thong Nguyen. These tea plants, resilient against mountain winds and mists, yield a pure, distinctively fragrant tea, a precious gift bestowed by nature upon Hoang Su Phi.
The Hoang Su Phi market, held every Sunday morning in Vinh Quang town, is where you can immerse yourself in the vibrant cultural tapestry of various ethnic groups. More than just a place for trade, the market is an occasion for locals to gather, socialize, showcase their colorful traditional costumes, and savor local delicacies. The cheerful chatter and radiant hues of the Dao, Nung, and La Chi attire create a bustling, unique festival atmosphere. This is an excellent opportunity to explore the rich spiritual life and purchase unique handicrafts as souvenirs.
A journey to Hoang Su Phi would be incomplete without indulging in its unique culinary delights. From fragrant Com Lam (rice cooked in bamboo tubes), carrying the essence of the mountains, to the rich and savory Thang Co – a signature highland dish that warms visitors amidst the chilly weather. Don't miss La Chi Rat Meat, grilled or smoked, a specialty deeply intertwined with the La Chi people's spiritual culture. Additionally, nutritious Au Tau Porridge, aromatic Smoked Buffalo Meat, and firm Terraced Field Carp are unforgettable flavors you must experience.
While still relatively remote, Hoang Su Phi has increasingly developed its accommodation options, particularly homestays in communes like Ban Phung, Ho Thau, Thong Nguyen, and Nam Hong. Choosing a homestay not only provides comfortable lodging but also offers a wonderful opportunity for visitors to immerse themselves in the local life, learn about customs, enjoy traditional meals, and experience the warmth and hospitality of the Red Dao and La Chi people. These homestays are often carefully designed, preserving traditional architecture while ensuring guest comfort.
Hoang Su Phi offers not only stunning natural landscapes but also profound historical and spiritual narratives. Po Lung Post (French Fort), a war relic from the late 19th century, with its intact system of bunkers and trenches, recalls a tumultuous period. Temples like Suoi Thau Temple or Vinh Quang Temple, dedicated to deities and local heroes, are significant spiritual destinations, reflecting the local people's beliefs and gratitude. The ancient tombs of the La Chi ethnic group are also unique relics, shrouded in mystery surrounding the local chieftain Hoang Van Thung, demonstrating a deep reverence for the past and ancestral culture.